Watching waves does not mean I understand them. Here is what I think I know.
There is an impulse
--energy, a genie, an epiphany. Wind or a boat--
and a body that receives it.
In this case, water.
The form that results is articulated by the conditions it encounters: rocky point, plunging shore.
For the watcher, a vocabulary of line, shape, and texture is articulated as well:
breaker, rill, trough,
spume, spindrift, backwash,
foam, cat’s paw, ripple, whitecap,
swash, surge, undertow
Language and image act on each other.
Shorelines build and erode.
In daylight, the waves are mostly blue or gray.
from Regarding Wave* a photo series
*Thanks to Gary Snyder whose 1970 book title I appropriated. He saw very clearly what he was regarding: “Gods tides capes currents/Flows and spirals of/pool and powers”